Natural Wine: A Philosophy, Not a Definition
By VERGE
Natural wine, often casually called “natty wine”, has no single, legally binding definition. Instead, it represents a philosophy of winemaking centered on minimal intervention, both in the vineyard and in the cellar. In most cases, natural wines are farmed organically or biodynamically, though this is not an absolute requirement. Likewise, they can be made in any style: red, white, rosé, sparkling, or orange wine (also known as skin-contact wine).
It’s important to clarify a common misconception: while many skin-contact wines are made using low-intervention methods, not all skin-contact wines are natural, and not all natural wines are skin-contact. The overlap is frequent, but not guaranteed.
A Brief History: Beyond Beaujolais
Many wine textbooks trace the modern natural wine movement to Beaujolais in the 1960s and 1970s, largely influenced by Jules Chauvet and later popularized by the so-called Gang of Four: Marcel Lapierre, Jean Foillard, Jean-Paul Thévenet, and Guy Breton. Chauvet’s ideas, native yeast fermentations, restrained sulfur use, and an emphasis on living soils, became foundational pillars of natural wine philosophy.
However, I believe the roots of natural wine run deeper.
A Post-World War II Perspective
One of France’s most challenging vintages was 1938, producing wines that were often diluted and lacking concentration. Prior to World War II, French viticulture relied heavily on abundant labor, draft animals, fertilizers, and chemical inputs. The war abruptly changed everything.
Vineyard labor collapsed as men were conscripted.
Horses were scarce, many farms were allowed only one animal.
Fertilizers were restricted, redirected toward industrial and military use.
As a result, vineyards were left largely untouched. Weeds flourished. Soils were no longer aggressively tilled. Insects returned, restoring biodiversity. The land, quite literally, was allowed to breathe.
Then came 1945, widely regarded as one of the great vintages. While some romantically credited divine intervention or cosmic relief after the war, the reality was more grounded: less intervention revealed more terroir. Growers began to realize that nature, when not overmanaged, could produce wines of remarkable character and authenticity.
The Pros of Natural Wine
Natural wine offers compelling advantages, especially for drinkers seeking authenticity and individuality.
1. Clear Expression of Terroir
With minimal manipulation, natural wines often reflect soil, climate, and site more transparently than heavily adjusted wines.
2. Unique Flavor Profiles
Expect the unexpected: savory notes, wild aromatics, texture-driven palates, and flavors rarely found in conventional wines.
3. Lower Chemical Inputs
Minimal or no added sulfur and fewer additives appeal to consumers seeking wines made with restraint and intention.
4. Living Wines
Natural wines evolve rapidly in the glass and over time, offering a dynamic drinking experience rather than a static one.
5. Alignment with Sustainability
Low-intervention farming often supports soil health, biodiversity, and long-term vineyard viability.
6. Cultural & Artistic Appeal
Natural wine sits at the intersection of agriculture, art, and counterculture - making it especially attractive to younger, curious drinkers.
The Cons of Natural Wine
That same lack of intervention also comes with trade-offs.
1. Bottle Variation
Two bottles from the same case may taste noticeably different, thrilling for some, frustrating for others.
2. Higher Risk of Faults
Excessive volatile acidity (VA), mousiness, reduction, and haze are more common and not always stylistic choices.
3. Shorter Shelf Life
Many natural wines are not designed for long aging and can deteriorate quickly once opened.
4. Inconsistency Across Producers
“Natural” is not regulated, quality depends heavily on the grower’s skill and philosophy.
5. Limited Supply & Accessibility
Small production means limited distribution and frequent sell-outs.
6. Not Always Beginner-Friendly
For drinkers accustomed to polished, predictable wines, natural wine can feel challenging or even off-putting.
Why Natural Wine Works So Well with Asian Cuisine
Natural wine has found a strong following in New York City, Los Angeles, and San Francisco, and continues to grow across Europe and East & Southeast Asia.
One reason is food.
Many natural wines feature:
Elevated acidity
Slightly higher VA
Umami-driven, briny, or savory notes
These characteristics make them exceptional partners for Asian cuisines, especially dishes that are fried, fermented, spicy, or umami-rich. The slight “edge” of natural wine cuts through oil, enhances savoriness, and mirrors the complexity of flavors found in Korean, Japanese, Southeast Asian, and Chinese cooking.
How to Find Natural Wine Today
Interestingly, most wines consumed today are already lower-intervention than in the past. Modern consumers rarely cellar wine, most bottles are opened within 24 hours, and roughly 95% of global wine production is intended for enjoyment within one to three years.
If you’re looking for Brooklyn-style natty wine, your best resource is a knowledgeable sommelier or independent wine shop. Ask questions. Be curious.
And one final myth to dispel: don’t rely on the “contains sulfites” label. All wines contain sulfites—it’s a natural byproduct of fermentation. What matters is whether sulfites are added, not whether they exist at all.
Final Thought
Natural wine isn’t about perfection, it’s about honesty. It rewards curiosity, tolerance for variation, and a willingness to let go of rigid expectations. Whether you love it, question it, or occasionally hate it, natural wine has permanently reshaped how we think about farming, flavor, and authenticity in the glass.
If you’re open-minded, natural wine might just change how you drink forever